Sunless Sun-kissed Skin: The Chemistry Behind Self-Tanners
- Josie Lim
- Jul 5, 2024
- 2 min read
Updated: Oct 5, 2024
As summer rolls around, many of us crave the radiant, sun-kissed glow of a perfect tan. Traditionally, achieving this meant spending time outside and risking UV exposure, but now there’s another option: self-tanners. Available in various formulas, such as lotions, gels, and mousses, self-tanners have become a popular choice for achieving a tan without UV exposure. But how do they work? And are they truly safer than traditional tanning methods?
How do self-tanners work?
The main active ingredient in most self-tanners is a reducing sugar called dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which interacts with amino acids in the skin to produce a temporary tan. The site of action of DHA is the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin. When self-tanner is applied topically to the skin, DHA reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum and undergoes the Maillard reaction. The Maillard reaction is a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that makes our bread toasty and gives steak its delicious char. This reaction forms a brown pigment known as melanoidin that darkens the skin, mimicking a suntan.
Are self-tanners safer than traditional tanning?
Traditional tanning methods, whether from natural sunlight or tanning beds, expose the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This exposure can lead to various health risks, including skin cancer, premature ageing, and eye damage. On the other hand, self-tanners do not expose the skin to harmful UV radiation, thus significantly reducing these risks. The safety profile of DHA is well documented; according to the 2010 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, DHA at concentrations up to 10% in cosmetic formulations will not pose a risk to the health of the consumer. Therefore, self-tanners are a considerably safer choice compared to traditional tanning methods.
Debunking Common Myths
Self-tanners are permanent
As DHA only interacts with the outermost layer of the skin, this colour change is temporary. It will typically fade and disappear over the course of several days as the skin naturally sheds its outer layer.
Self-tanners will stain your clothes and bedsheets
DHA, the main compound that causes the darkening of the skin, is actually a colourless compound and does not stain. What really causes stains are oils and colourants found in many commercial self-tanning products. Thus, opting for a clear or colourless self-tanner would significantly reduce the chances of staining.
Self-tanners offer sun protection
Although many self-tanning products may be advertised with an SPF rating, this only applies when the product is physically on the skin, not when it is washed off (which is what you would usually do after applying self-tanner). A sunless tan does not offer any sun protection as it does not contain any sunscreen, so you will be just as susceptible to sunburn despite your tanned appearance. Therefore, it is just as important to wear sunscreen when exposed to the sun, even if you have used a self-tanner.
Overall, self-tanners offer a safe alternative to traditional tanning methods as there is no UV exposure involved. However, it is still extremely important to use these products carefully, and always practice proper sun protection.
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